Hi,I've made it from component cable to VGA (to plugin PS2 to the monitor) step by step as was shown on the pageAll works (I've tested Soul Calibur III f.e.), but all the screen is green:-/Also with 'screen fix' option turned on (in modbo 760) to VGA screen is still green (here is a link to foto: )Is there any possibility to get rid of green color?My console is PS 2 SCPH-30004 R, PAL version and the monitor is LG F700B.In my project I've used capacitors 100nf, also lm1881m (smd) and resistor 680kOhm with 5% tolerance.Construction takes +5V from USB port on PS2. The green tint on your computer monitor is caused by having the sync information still contained on the green video signal.
Even though the LM1881 generated new H/Composite and V syncs, the compsite sync is still on green video. One of my computer monitors will accept SoG, but I have to change the sync clamp mode (Mitsubishi DP900u) or else sync information is displayed (like the issue you are encountering). So, look through the menus on your monitor to see if there are any sync settings (to avoid having to build a circuit to remove the sync on green video).
@RGB32E: There are no options to synchronize my monitor, is there any way to get rid of that green color?Perhaps filtering RGB with 220uf caps will fix the problem. I can't say that that will necessarily fix the issue though. For my setup (to DP900u), all I have to do is connect R, G, B and ground to my monitor and set the 'Clamp Pulse Position' to back. But the clamp setting is specific to some of the Diamond Pro CRT monitors. If you don't want to build anything, pick up something like this: All you'd need to do is wire the RGB signals to a DP9F connector and use a VGA to 5 BNC cable to your monitor and you're done. Hi, s8n & RGB32EUnfortunately adding 220uf (electrolits) didn't work for me.
They are connected properly (to PS2). I'm confused with this sheme: because they are suggesting 220uf ceramic one but IMHO they don't exist (I was searching on google and haven't found it, only electronics one). I've tried to add 0,220uf but it also didn't work. (black screen).I've updated 'adaptor' to use ucy7404 (+capacitors) but nothing happened:-/I'm not interested in ready-to-use solutions, I'd preffer to finish this on my own.I don't want to change anything in my console to synchronize before messing with colorsOne more quesion about the sheme, if my monitor supports SOG, what should I connect to monitor?RGB kolors, and to 10-pin with d-sub ground for example from green color?I've found on producent official site information about the input:separated, analog RGB, 0.7Vp-p/75 ohm, plus.
Hi,Unfortunately that sheme didn't work for me. Monitor displays: 'no signal' (so I have to give separate synchronisations h/v). Do you have any idea how can I get rid of that green color?Yeah, I'm not surprised that it didn't work. Typically, only higher end monitors support SoG (should always be listed in a given monitor's manual). The schematic viletim posted above looks like WAY too much work to resolve the issue.
Like I stated before, just pick up an Extron RGB interface second hand -or- buy a better computer monitor, and be done with it! RGB32E: I'm not sure about your idea - still looking for solutionThe idea is that you pipe the RGB signals from the playstation through an RGB interface. The purpose of the RGB interface is to input RGB in a choice of sync configurations (e.g. RGsB - Sync on Green, RGBS, RGBHV) and to output RGB in a choice of sync configurations (e.g. RGsB - Sync on Green, RGBS, RGBHV). So, with a device such as the Extron RGB 130xi, you input RGsB, and output RGBHV to your computer monitor. Also, a number of different Extron RGB interfaces have controls for horizontal and vertical image shift, levels (raise or lower the video voltage level), and peaking (sharpness).
I hope that clarifies.What you're doing right now is effectively connecting RGsBHV to your computer monitor. The extron devices will extract the sync from Green video and remove the sync info on the green video output.Also, I checked out the manual for your LG 700B, and it does not accept RGsB. I did notice in the 'Setup' menu of your monitor that there is a levels adjustment (0.7Vp-p or 1.0Vp-p). While the levels adjustment may not fix your problem, it might be fun to play around with!
Hi,Thanks for all answers.I've connected PS2 through KVM to the monitor, and the KVM removes green color, but sometimes it still appears.It's a temporary solution, because doesn't remove the problem, cause:- green color sometimes appears- screen is dark (adding 220uF 16v (electrolic) doesn't help, still dark screen)I've made some photos of this solution:I'm going to take out the synchronization from the PS (it'll be hard, because in 30004R there isn't any good place to get out the signals).If I do something I'll sure write!Thanks for helprydz. Loliveira: thanks for replay and info.I've found h/v synchronization points on my V5. I'm still waiting for 74hc245.I'm thinking of connecting 74hc245 to input and output (2, 9 and 11, 18 pins) but synchronization h/v are in other place then on photos (pins: 5, 7 and 13, 15). Are both connections correct?Also on those photos there is something connected to the pin 10.
But I can't see it on the sheme. What should be attached to that pin?Can I connect the pin 32 on A3525BR to the ground or should I look for other place on board?Last question: Can i connect 74hc245 to the a/v (pin 10) electric current?Thanks for helprydz. Loliveira: thanks for replay and info.I've found h/v synchronization points on my V5. I'm still waiting for 74hc245.I'm thinking of connecting 74hc245 to input and output (2, 9 and 11, 18 pins) but synchronization h/v are in other place then on photos (pins: 5, 7 and 13, 15). Are both connections correct?Also on those photos there is something connected to the pin 10.
But I can't see it on the sheme. What should be attached to that pin?Can I connect the pin 32 on A3525BR to the ground or should I look for other place on board?Last question: Can i connect 74hc245 to the a/v (pin 10) electric current?Thanks for helprydz1- You can get the 74F245 or even the HC type part from scrapped 90s PCs, btw.2- You set a fixed direction on the 74HC245 by connecting the direction pin to +5V (connect pin 1 to pin 20) and use pins 2 and 8 as inputs. You can use any of them but you only need to make sure you're using the respective output for the input used.
Like for example signal on pin 2 will be output at pin 18 and signal on pin 9 will be output at pin 11. Don't forget also to set pin 19 to GND (it enables the chip, if it is not set to GND the inputs will not be output on the other side of the chip.3-You connect the outputs from the 74HC245 directly to the VGA connector. The RGB signals also go directly from the PS2 out port to the VGA connector.4- the pin 32 of the CXA3525BR chip is connected to a 10k resistor if I am not forgotten. I suggest you to just move the resistor to the other empty position close to it. You will notice it looks like a jumper (2 spots for resistors which only one is populated)4- Yes, you can use power from the PS2 A/V port.Hope this was helpful. Hi, I've connectedall, pics with synchro:And here with clean board from both sides:next pics with pointed synchro ASO:after connecting PS2 to the monitor using synchronization I have 2 problems:1.
Horizontal refresh has only 15 kHz and the minimum should be 31 kHz (it's strage because pin 32 is GND-ed, and to have vision I must force VGA mode in modchip)2. Colors are dark, the same was when I've connected monitor through lm1881m (adding 220uF (electrolic) didn't change anything).It's very strage I don't get right horizontal refresh.Do u have any idea how to fix it and why I've got this problem?Good I get rid of green color at last!best wishesrydz.
There are monitors that natively support SOG (sync-on-green), and others that don't, the others that don't support it, they need some extra components to separate the video sync from the green channel, and that can be done with a LM1881 chip in order to make it work. Do this at your own risk, I'm not responsible for what might happen to your hardware, make sure you do everything with caution, you follow up the instructions correctly and carefully and you always analyze voltage and amperage endings to make sure what you are doing is meeting your hardware specifications.This mod worked for me, but it doesn't mean that it might end up working the same way for you, i just tested it with my Playstation 2, always making sure that nothing will blow up. But be aware that every hardware has its own specifications and limitations, also every Playstation 2 has its own specifications and limitations, so If you are not an expert, and you don't know what you are doing, don't try to attempt this. Board project: i added a diode (don't invert the polarization otherwise this will not work) between the Playstation 2 Green and the VGA green pins, this way i can remove the synchronization from green.
But since the diode has an internal resistance, this makes the green wave signal weak, so i added a potentiometer connected to GND and VCC that allows me increase the wave before it gets rid of the sync signal.In short the potentiometer amplifies the wave, then the diode removes the sync and reduces the wave to it's correct shape. This is not a perfect solution and you'll still be able to see some remaining green (almost none) in some particular areas, that you can compensate or remove with the potentiometer. If your game is almost of the same colors, then you just leave the potentiometer as it is, and you keep playing. If you feel like you want to make it work even better, you can use an Arduino to analyze the voltage (like your multimeter is already doing), and increase or decrease the voltage sending an PWM signal like your potentiometer is doing, this way you have an automatic process that increases or decreases the green when you need it.
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Without advertising revenue we couldn't bring you any content and we really don't feel our ads spoil the site at all. Thank you!Disclaimer:- All the information I’ve put here is based on my own research or experience. I maintain and use a modest retro-gaming collection and have spent a lot of time getting everything right, not least tracking down the best SCART leads, adaptors, switchers and hubs. Nevertheless, I’m not an electrician nor do I have a strong electronics background.
If you spot a mistake on this page, please leave a comment and let me know.If you’re on this site, then you’re probably the kind of perfectionist that wants the best possible picture from your games consoles. In order to achieve that easily on most machines from the Playstation 1/Sega Saturn era and earlier, you are going to need a SCART cable. SCART cables can produce a full RGB picture. If you’re not sure what RGB means, you might want to start with this.So, you know you want RGB and you know SCART can provide it, let’s find out a little more about SCART and how best to put it to work.
What is SCART? SCART SocketIf you live in Europe then you are probably familiar with the SCART sockets on your TV, but if you’re from the other side of the world, you might never have even seen a SCART socket before. SCART is a 21 pin connector that can carry video and audio. It’s the most common way of getting RGB from many retro consoles. However, SCART can be a confusing standard, to make sure you get the best results, there are a few things you need to consider. Types of SCART socketThere are actually three different types of SCART socket you may encounter (many more if you count minor variations of course):-S-Video SCART:- SCART was designed as a multi-purpose connector and so can carry both S-Video and RGB signals, but not at the same time. If you connect an RGB SCART cable to an S-Video SCART socket, you will only get a composite video picture.RGB SCART:- This type of SCART socket will accept a full RGB signal.
This doesn’t necessary mean you will get a perfect picture, as it depends on your TV/Video-processors capabilities, though it will be significantly better than composite.Note:- There are SCART sockets on some sets that will accept composite, S-Video and RGB signals. Check your TV’s instruction manual to be certain what types of signal are accepted.Japanese 21-pin RGB:- A rarer, Japanese only standard that uses the exact same connector as the European cables, but with the corresponding pins in different locations. Commonly encountered by gamers on the XRGB series of video-processors. Anatomy of a SCART cable.
Image taken from Tim Worthington’s website. Link at the bottom of the article.The Saturns SCART cable is straightforward, there’s a wire each for red, green and blue, two for stereo and one for composite video, which is used for sync (more on that later). Notice the +5 volts applied to pins 8 and 16. These are signal pins, pin 8 tells the TV which aspect ratio to select and pin 16 tells the TV to select RGB mode.
Pin 16 must have at least 1.3 volts applied to it or the TV will ignore the RGB signal and fall back to composite. Some video processors, e.g XRGB3, ignore these pins entirely and will only display an RGB signal via SCART. Types of SCART cableJust as there are different types of SCART socket, there are different types of SCART cable. Good quality cables should have all pins connected but of course this is not always the case.
If you are buying a SCART cable for your games console, check with the seller to make sure it is an RGB SCART cable and not a cheaper, composite only cable. Do not be fooled into thinking that a simple composite to SCART adaptor will give you RGB quality either. An adaptor like the one pictured on the left is often bundled with games consoles. Torchlight 2 embermage skills 1. It will NOT give you an RGB picture.In certain rare instances, you may need a composite sync RGB SCART cable. One such instance is when using the Sega Saturn through the XRGB and DVDO Edge or Gefen scalers.
We’ll look at this in more detail in the next section. Pure/raw composite sync Vs sync on composite videoWhen sending RGB analogue video, you require one wire each for the red, green and blue components and at least one wire for a synchronization signal. Almost all SCART cables that you can purchase for games consoles will carry composite video on pin 20.
When using RGB, this signal is used as a composite sync signal. For most applications this works perfectly fine and it also means that the cable is backwards compatible with composite only SCART equipment.
There are instances however, where using a pure sync (also known as a raw sync, clean sync or pure composite sync) signal results in a better and/or more stable picture. Users of the XRGB line of video-processors in particular have noticed that using pure sync rather than sync on composite video can give better results. Usually, to use pure sync, all you need to do is desolder the composite video connection from pin 20, and replace it with a connection to the consoles pure sync line (in the NTSC Saturn’s case, that’s pin 1). This is not always the case however, some consoles may need modifications to make the pure sync signal more stable, or to bring the voltage into line with SCART standards.New retrogamers are sometimes confused when they see cables sold and described as using “composite video for sync”. This does not mean that the cable carries only composite video, of course, merely that the composite video output is used for synchronisation. Pitfalls of SCART switchingIf you regularly use several games consoles, sooner or later you will run out of SCART sockets on your TV/Video processor.
The answer to this problem is, of course, to buy some kind of SCART switching device. I’ve tried to review as many SCART switches as possible, so check that out if you have a specific model in mind. You might reasonably expect that any SCART switcher will suffice, yet it seems strangely difficult to find a SCART switch or hub that is actually compatible with all games consoles. Perhaps this is due to differences in voltage compared with video equipment.
Whatever the reason, be careful when choosing a SCART switch. There are several types on the market:-Passive auto switches – These require no external power supply and have no manual switching capability, instead they simply route the signal from the sockets directly to the plug. In theory, as long as you only have one device powered on, this should work perfectly fine. In practise however, that’s rarely the case and all sorts of strange things can and do happen, from sound not working properly to the picture being dimmed to games consoles turning themselves on even when unplugged from the mains!
(due to excessive voltage flowing through the circuit). Avoid these kinds of SCART switches (often called SCART blocks), they are not suitable for games consoles.Passive manual switches – These require no external power supply but have buttons or switches that select which input is connected. These kind of switches are cheap and lack the auto switching capability of more expensive models, but are the most reliable switching solution available and can work almost as well as simply plugging the SCART cable directly into your TV. For a hassle free, cost effective way to add more SCART sockets to your retro-gaming setup, this is absolutely the way to go.
Even so, care must be taken to choose a good quality switch. The push button switch shown here is not recommended. Because the push buttons do not fully isolate the SCART sockets from each other, the picture from one input can become degraded by adding a SCART cable to another input, even when the other input is powered down and the push button is released.Auto switches with no manual override – This kind of switch requires an external power supply. It will automatically switch to the active input and will often include all kinds of smart switching capabilities. In use, this kind of switch is much more reliable than the pasive auto switches, but can still cause problems with games consoles. The Bluedelta Smart-SCART shown in the picture is one of the most highly rated auto SCART switches available, but still has compatibility problems with certain games consoles, especially if you are using an XRGB3 too.
Playstation 2 Board Pure Rgb Sync System
If your SCART cables are correctly wired, however, the better auto switches should work in most cases.Auto switches with manual override – These are usually the most expensive kinds of SCART switch available. They are very useful as central hubs for bigger, more complex switching setups.
The reliability of them varies widely, but most high end models with manual override will work correctly even with unusual SCART cables. The Trilogy 1, shown in the picture, is very reliable and will route virtually any kind of standard or non-standard SCART signal, including component video over SCART. Unfortunately, as videophiles move away from SCART towards HDMI, high quality switching hubs like this one are becoming harder to find. Other considerationsOne of the most common problems encountered with SCART cables is humming in the audio, especially when the screen is particularly bright. As you might expect, this is caused by interference between the video and audio lines. One way to avoid this is to route the audio cable separately from the video cables and then join them again at the SCART end.
Buying higher quality SCART cables with better shielding can also eliminate this problem, though for retro-consoles you’re usually limited to what’s available on E-bay and from specialist video-game stores, unless you can find the components to build your own cable.References and further readingThe following websites were very helpful when researching and compiling this article:. Shows wiring configurations for most games consoles. A more video-centric look at SCART sockets and switching. Very informative introduction to SCART and SCART cables.
Main article:The DualShock 2 Analog Controller (SCPH-10010) is the standard controller for the PlayStation 2 and is almost identical to the original controller for the original PlayStation console with only minor changes. All the buttons other than L3, R3 and 'Analog' feature analog pressure sensitivity; the connecting cable is slightly longer than the original DualShock and is black rather than grey; the connector is squarer; DualShock 2 is printed on the top of the controller and it features two more levels of vibration feedback.
Inputs. 2× (8-bit precision). 10× Pressure sensitive buttons(, L1, R1, L2, R2, Start, Select).
Pressure sensitive. 3× Digital buttons('Analog', L3, R3)ConnectivityPlayStation (2) controller port, proprietary wireless.Dimensions.
155 × 102 × 60 mm. 6.1 × 4 × 2.36 inSuccessorThe Logitech Cordless Action controller is an officially licensed wireless controller for the PlayStation 2 made. It features all of the inputs found the standard DualShock 2 controller, i.e. Ten analog (pressure-sensitive) buttons (, L1, R1, L2, R2, Start and Select), three digital button (L3, R3 and the analog mode button) and two. As its buttons are pressure-sensitive, the controller is compatible with games which require a DualShock 2. The controller also features two vibration motors for haptic feedback, which are compatible with DualShock/DualShock 2 enabled games.
As a power saving measure, the vibration may be turned on or off by the user by way of a button on the controller's face. It is powered by two.
It communicates with the console using a proprietary 2.4 GHz RF protocol wireless by way of a dongle which connects to the PS2's controller port in a similar manner to Nintendo's wireless controller. Inputs. 2× Analog sticks (8-bit precision). 10× Pressure sensitive buttons(, L1, R1, L2, R2, Start, Select). Pressure sensitive.
Playstation 2 Board Pure Rgb Sync Kit
3× Digital buttons('Analog', L3, R3)ConnectivityPlayStation (2) controller port, proprietary 2.4 GHz wireless.Like the Logitech Cordless Action controller, the Logitech Cordless Controller is an officially licensed wireless PlayStation 2 controller made. It features all of the buttons (including analog functionality) of the standard DualShock 2 controller and is compatible with games requiring a DualShock 2. It is powered by two AA batteries, and as a power-saving measure, the vibration function can be turned off. It communicates with the console via a wireless dongle which connects to the PS2's controller port and uses a proprietary 2.4 GHz RF technology.
See also:The Sega Saturn PS2 Controller is a controller for the PS2 based around the Sega Saturn. The controller is officially licensed by both Sony and, and the first version was released in black exclusively in Japan in 2005. A second version was produced in the color purple as part of a joint venture between Sega and to coincide with the launch of in Japan. Other than the connector, it is almost identical to the original Saturn controller, with a few minor changes. In place of the original Saturn start button are indented PlayStation style start and select buttons.
Additionally, the reset, stop, play/pause, rewind and fast-forward labels above the X, Y, Z, L and R buttons have been removed, and labels of the corresponding PlayStation buttons have been added as listed below. Saturn buttonPlayStation buttonABCR1XYZL1LL2RR2Logitech Driving Force GT. Wireless Buzzers and USB adapterBuzz! Buzzers are special controllers designed specifically for the quiz game series. The controllers feature large red buzzer buttons and four smaller coloured buttons for answer selection. Both wired and wireless versions are available and come bundled with Buzz! A four-buzzer set acts as a single USB device and connects a USB port on the PlayStation 2.
Wireless versions connect via a USB dongle, with each dongle able to support up to 4 wireless buzzers at a time. A second dongle is required for additional buzzers (for 8 player games). Both the wired and wireless versions of the buzzers are compatible with both PlayStation 2 and PlayStation 3. The 'big button controllers' available for the Xbox 360 heavily resemble buzzers in many respects, and fulfil the same function. PS2 DVD remote controlThe DVD remote control is an infra-red remote control for the PlayStation 2 designed to allow easier control of DVD movies. The first remote SCPH-10150 came bundled (as SCPH-10170) with an infra-red receiver dongle SCPH-10160 which attached to one of the PlayStation 2's controller ports; this dongle is not needed on later PS2 models (beginning from SCPH-500xx) and slimline PS2 models (SCPH-700xx to SCPH-900xx) as they feature an integrated IR port.There are two different models of the DVD remote control released, which only had minor differences. The first released is the SCPH-10150.
The second, SCPH-10420, is functionally and visually identical apart from the addition of eject and reset/power buttons. However the eject button will only work on PS2 models SCPH-100xx to -500xx, as the slimline PlayStation 2 models had no motorized disc tray to eject.Both versions of the remote feature all the standard PS2 buttons in addition to DVD playback controls. Civ 6 purchase with faith hill. PlayStation cableVarious A/V cables have been made available for the PlayStation 2, which offer varying levels of picture quality. Additionally, the PS2 features a port, which facilitates the output of digital audio - 2-channel, 5.1-channel and 5.1-channel (the latter two are only available during DVD playback when it is encoded on the disk). The PS2 is compatible with all and cables which use the AV-multi port.RFU adapter The RFU Adapter (SCPH-1122) is an and cable that carries mono audio and video at /50 Hz (PAL) or /60 Hz (NTSC) via an signal and connects using a. It is similar to the RFU adapter cable available for the PlayStation.AV (Composite) cable The AV cable (SCPH-10500) is included with the PS2 and carries dual-channel (stereo) audio and at 576i/50 Hz (PAL) or 480i/60 Hz (NTSC). It is identical to the composite cables available for the PlayStation and PlayStation 3.
Consoles in also come bundled with a composite/stereo adapter block to facilitate connection to SCART enabled TVs. This is merely an adapter and provides no quality improvement over a direct composite connection.S-Video Cable The S-Video cable (SCPH-10060U/97030) carries dual-channel (stereo) audio and at 576i/50 Hz (PAL) or 480i/60 Hz (NTSC), which provides a clearer picture than the standard AV cable.AV Adaptor The AV Adaptor with S Video Out Connector (SCPH-10130) is a break-out box which provides an additional AV-Multi out port, as well as composite, s-video and stereo audio connectors to allow connection to an AV receiver or similar device. EURO AV (RGB SCART) cable The EURO AV Cable (SCPH-10142) is a cable capable of carrying 576i/50 Hz or 480i/60 Hz using the RGB standard, as well as standard stereo audio and composite video. It provides a clearer picture than either s-video or composite signals. To use the EURO AV cable, the PS2 must be set to RGB mode in the options. Component AV cable The Component AV Cable (SCPH-10490) is a cable capable of carrying 576i/50 Hz or 480i/60 Hz using the and RGB standards, as well as standard stereo audio, via connectors. It provides a clearer picture than either s-video or composite signals.
It is also required for games which support other video modes such as 'progressive scan'. Most PS1 games output at 240p through the cable, which may cause compatibility issues with some newer TV's.To use the Component AV cable, the PS2 must be set to YP BP R mode in the options. D-Terminal cable The D-Terminal cable is identical to the other than its connector. It was sold only in Japan and uses the Japanese standard.VGA Cable The PlayStation 2 VGA cable carries video via a connector.
It is only compatible with games. Since the PS2 does not output separate sync, sync on green must be used instead, which may be incompatible with some monitors. Official PS2 Memory CardThe Memory Card (8 MB) (SCPH-10020) Magic Gate is used to store settings, video messages. Official Sony memory cards are only available at a size of 8 MB, the memory card came in black, crimson red, and ocean blue.Later, Sony partnered with a third-party accessories company Katana to make Memory Cards that came in 16 MB and 32 MB. These Memory Cards were officially licensed products and has the PlayStation 2 logo, and says Magic Gate on them.Third party memory cards are available up to 128 MB.Multitap. See also:The Multitap for PlayStation 2 allows up to four controllers and four memory cards to be attached to a single controller port and memory card slot.
Up to 8 controllers and memory cards may be attached to the console at any one time by using two multitaps simultaneously. Certain Multitaps will not work with specific PS2 models due to slight differences in slot placement. SCPH-10090 was designed to fit the original consoles, while SCPH-70120 was instead designed for the slim consoles.
This section is empty. You can help. ( March 2012)The PlayStation 2 network adapter is an optional accessory for some internet multiplayer compatible games. Although the PS2 Slim had one built in the PS2 fat network adapter needed to be purchased.Keyboard and Mouse An official Sony PlayStation 2 USB and came bundled as part of which turns any non slim PS2 into a Linux computer. Any standard USB keyboard and mouse will work. In addition to the Linux kit, there were a handful of games that used a keyboard and mouse or just a mouse or trackball.Vertical Stand The Vertical Stand is attached to the PlayStation 2 console to allow it to stand vertically.
Three different versions are available: SCPH-10040 for original (large) consoles, SCPH-70110 for slimline SCPH-700xx consoles and SCPH-90110 for slimline SCPH-900xx consoles.Horizontal Stand The horizontal stand is attached to the base of original 'fat' PlayStation 2 consoles to add height, and style. Retrieved 2012-03-27. 26 February 2005. Retrieved 15 September 2010. ^. Retrieved 15 September 2010. Retrieved 2012-03-27.
Retrieved 2012-03-27. Retrieved 2012-03-27. Retrieved 2012-03-27. Retrieved 22 November 2010. Retrieved 16 September 2010. Retrieved 16 September 2010. Retrieved 16 September 2010.
Retrieved 16 September 2010. Retrieved 2012-03-27. ^. Retrieved 22 November 2010. Retrieved 22 November 2010. Retrieved 22 November 2010.
Playstation 2 Board Pure Rgb Sync Battle
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Thank you!The long awaited Megadrive RGB bypass board by Voultar is now available in our store, both for and as a. Big thanks to Voultar for this open source design and for allowing us to sell the board on our site.Fitting the RGB bypass amp is a little more complicated than we had anticipated. However, our friends over at BetaGamma Computing have come to the rescue with this handy guide.Without further delay, let’s hand over to BetaGamma Computing for the install guide.This step by step guide describes the Installation of the open source Voultar RGB Bypass Amplifier board for the original SEGA MegaDrive/Genesis 1.A Megadrive/Genesis board r evision BD M5 PAL has been used in this document but the procedure is virtually the same for other revisions as well as for NTSC Models. Minor differences that may occur are the locations of the pure RGB and CSYNC signals obtained from the video processor chip. Revision 2 boardScope of InstallationThe MegaDrive 1 is a fantastic console but it is sadly plagued by a soft RGB output often with horrendous jailbars. Various methods exist to mitigate the jailbar effect, but only a bypass amp such as this one can eliminate them completely (very minor traces may remain on some consoles when subjected to intense scrutiny).This modification removes the onboard CXA-1145 from all RGB video processing functions. It does this by isolating all input and output signals to and from the CXA-1145, picking up the RGB and CSYNC source signals as close to the VDP as possible.
It also removes any tracks carrying these signals on the PCB. These are no longer required and removing them will avoid them picking up noise.The 8 PIN DIN Connector on the Mega Drive is configured to use a Scart cable that is wired for clean CSYNC on Pin 7.
Composite video for sync cables are not compatible as composite video will not be generated by the console after this Installation.It is advised that a competent engineer performs this modification for you. If you don’t feel confident after reviewing this guide then use Revision 1 board only – Add pull up resistorIf your RGB bypass board is a revision one model, then you should add an extra resistor to the board.
If your board does NOT have a small hedgehog head on it, then it is a revision 1.CSYNC output from the VDP requires a 2k2 pull up resistor in order to feed the CXA or Bypass board correctly. The original circuitry on the motherboard uses a 2k2 resistor but due to the way we isolate CSYNC from the VDP we are unable to include this important component hence we need to re-introduce it on our Bypass installation.Revision 2 Boards have this 2k2 resistor added to the Bypass board and do NOT require this fix.You can use any 2k2 resistor, size permitting, as long as it is of good quality. A metal film resistor with a low tolerance for example. Wattage value is not important in this application. Connect this 2k2 resistor between the +5V and CS Pads on the input side of the Bypass amplifier.In the above example, has added an SMD type 2k2 resistor.
InstallationDisconnect all power from your console and carefully strip the unit down, noting which screws came from where and keep them safe. Remove the mainboard from the casing and place on an a nti- s tatic protected workbench.The above picture shows our stock unmodified console. First we need to carry out some steps to prepare it for the new amplifier PCB.There are 2 s crews thermally fixing the 2 v oltage regulators to the heatsink seen in the top left of the picture.
Carefully remove these screws, then also remove the 2 heatsink mounting screws from the solder side of the board. These 4 screws MUST only be used to re-fix the heatsink later.You should now be able to carefully lift away the h eatsink, giving full access to the video encoder circuitry.Now we need to remove the RF modulator.
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